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Electric windows are being fitted to more and more cars as standardequipment, while conversion kits are available to suit most models.

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Although they can be a real convenience (no more leaning over the passengerseat to open or close the window) they can also be a considerable annoyancewhen they stop working. Fortunately, however, both the mechanical and theelectrical parts of the system are fairly straightforward for the advanced DIYmechanic to work on.

The most obvious fault with electric windows is that they fail to operate.If the problem occurs on all windows you can be pretty sure that the fault isin the main wiring circuit, and this is also the region to check first even ifthe problem is restricted to just one window. Try listening to see if you canhear the motor operating - if it is, but the window does not move, the problemlies in the mechanical linkage.

Slow or jerky operation and mechanical noise point to a problem with themechanism, window guides or drive motor of the window concerned - the fact thatthe window is partially working shows that the electric circuit iscomplete.

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Similarly jamming part way through the motion is probably due to themechanism or the window guides, and if there are rattles from the door thewindow guides may be loose.

As with all electrical equipment you need to take care when making tests to ensure that you do not short the power supply to earth. The circuits for electric windows are designed to carry very high currents so a lot of damage could be caused before the protecting fuse blows.To avoid the risk of accidentally operating the winder motor while you are dismantling the window mechanism, disconnect the battery leads before you start work.If you need to operate the window as part of your checks, take particular care to make sure that nothing gets trapped — the scissor action of a typical lever mechanism could easily remove the end of a finger.

Erratic operation, with the window working perfectly sometimes and thenplaying up, is most likely due to an intermittent electrical fault, such as aloose connection.

Most window circuits are protected by a fuse or cutout in the supply lineand this is the first place to check if the windows refuse to operate. Withsome arrangements a single fuse in the main supply line is used to protect thecomplete window system so a failure here affects all the windows. Other carshave individual fuses for each window motor so failure will only affect the onewindow.

In some cars the fuse is in the main fusebox but many makers use in-linefuses so check with your manual to find where the fuse is and replace it ifblown. Instead of a fuse the system may be fitted with a circuit breaker.

Then test the window. If it works properly the fuse probably blew (or thecutout tripped) due to a temporary overload. However if the new fuse blowsimmediately you will have to investigate further.

Generally the power for the window circuits (which draw a large current) issupplied direct from the battery through a relay (or relays) actuated byturning the ignition on. Find the relay position from your car handbook.

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Use a test lamp to check that current is reaching the relay. With theignition turned on check for current at the relay control terminal. If thereisn't any the problem lies in the wiring from the ignition switch. Then testthe output side of the relay - current means the relay is faulty and should bereplaced, otherwise the problem lies in the control switches, the wiring or themotor itself.

To continue checking remove the door trim so you can get at the motor.Generally you can do this by unscrewing items such as ashtrays, door handlesand control panels and then unclipping the trim panel.

The opening in the inner door may be lined with a plastic condensation sheetwhich has to be pulled (or in some cases cut) loose and put carefully to oneside until needed for refitting.

Once you have gained access to the motor check both the power supply wiresleading from the switch as you operate the control switch. If you find there iscurrent in both the wires the problem lies with the motor which should beinvestigated further. Alternatively if there is no current in the wires, oronly in one, the problem lies in either the control switch or the wiring.

When making this check on passenger doors remember that there may be anisolating switch in the control console which has to be set on before theindividual door switches will work.

To check the switches and wiring work back from the motor terminals usingyour test lamp to check each connection or switch assembly in turn. One areathat is particularly prone to failure is the wiring that passes between thedoor and the main body of the car and is flexed each time the door isopened.

Replace any broken wires and faulty switches, remake any loose connections,and insulate any chafed wires. After making repairs retest the window to see ifyou have solved the problem. If not continue with your tests since there may bemore than one fault in the circuit.

Sticking and jerky operation is often due to troubles with the windowmechanism. To check it start by removing the door trim. Look over the mechanismto see if there is any obvious damage and make sure there is nothing that mightmake it jam - loose wires in the door cavity are a particular risk. Thenoperate the motor and watch the mechanism to see if it runs smoothly or ifthere is excessive play anywhere in the system.

Badly worn mechanisms will have to be replaced but sticking ones can oftenbe eased by lubricating them. Use light oil (preferably with a graphiteadditive) for the pivot points and grease on the window sliders and the geardrive teeth. Only apply small amounts of lubricant at a time, operating thewindow between applications to ensure good penetration. Assuming that thewindows now operate normally wipe up any excess lubricant and replace the doortrim.

A common cause of sticking mechanisms is corrosion due to excessive waterpenetrating past worn weatherseals. If you think this is the case fit a newseal.

Should the action remain sluggish the problem may lie in the motor so removeit to check. If the motor appears to be running (you may be able to hear it orfeel the vibrations) but there is no movement the gear drive between motor andmechanism has probably failed so remove the motor to check it.

In most cases before you start to dismantle the regulator mechanism it is agood idea to fasten the window up in the closed position by taping it to theframe to take the weight off the mechanism. However with some cars the windowhas to be in the lowered position to allow you to unbolt the carrier from thewindow. So be prepared to undo the tape, lower the window and re-tape ifnecessary.

The way the motor assembly is fitted varies with the precise design ofmechanism but start the removal process by disconnecting the power wires. Undothe screws that hold the motor to the door or to the winder mechanism. You maythen be able to just pull the motor away from the rest of the winder mechanism.Watch out for any drive adapter pieces that may fall out when you remove themotor.

If, however, the motor will not come free you will have to remove the restof the winding mechanism as well. Unbolt the mounting points on the door andfree the linkage from the window glass so you can pull it free (see Bodywork 22and 35).

With the motor out of the door check the gearing for signs of damage orwear. Try reconnecting the power supply and operating the motor to see if itruns smoothly. Erratic or slow operation points to a motor fault so get itchecked by an auto-electrician.

Alternatively try dismantling the motor assembly to lubricate the bearings,replacing the brushes if worn, and cleaning the commutator. If the motor isfaulty and you cannot service it successfully the only answer is areplacement.

Tape the window in its closed position to the frame to hold it out of the way. Then disconnect the wiring from the motor and unbolt the motor from the door.

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Limit switches

When refitting the motor and mechanism note that some motors have built-inlimit switches to cut out the motor automatically when the window reaches thetop or bottom of its travel. You have to make sure this switch is set properlybefore you refit the motor.

Boot Camp requires a Mac with an Intel processor.

When you install Microsoft Windows on your Mac, Boot Camp Assistant automatically opens the Boot Camp installer, which installs the latest Windows support software (drivers). If that doesn't happen, or you experience any of the following issues while using Windows on your Mac, follow the steps in this article.

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If your Mac has an AMD video card and is having graphics issues in Windows, you might need to update your AMD graphics drivers instead.

Install the latest macOS updates

Before proceeding, install the latest macOS updates, which can include updates to Boot Camp.

Format a USB flash drive

To install the latest Windows support software, you need a 16GB or larger USB flash drive formatted as MS-DOS (FAT).

  1. Start your Mac from macOS.
  2. Plug the USB flash drive into your Mac.
  3. Open Disk Utility, which is in the Utilities folder of your Applications folder.
  4. Choose View > Show All Devices from the menu bar.
  5. From the sidebar in Disk Utility, select your USB flash drive. (Select the drive name, not the volume name beneath it.)
  6. Click the Erase button or tab.
  7. Choose MS-DOS (FAT) as the format and Master Boot Record as the scheme.
  8. Click Erase to format the drive. When done, quit Disk Utility.

Download the Windows support software

After preparing your USB flash drive, complete these steps:

  1. Make sure that your Mac is connected to the Internet.
  2. Open Boot Camp Assistant, which is in the Utilities folder of your Applications folder.
  3. From the menu bar at the top of your screen, choose Action > Download Windows Support Software, then choose your USB flash drive as the save destination. When the download completes, quit Boot Camp Assistant.

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Learn what to do if you can't download or save the Windows support software.

Install the Windows support software

After downloading the Windows support software to your flash drive, follow these steps to install the software. (If you're attempting to resolve issues with a Bluetooth mouse or keyboard, it might be easier to use a USB mouse or keyboard until these steps are complete.)

  1. Make sure that the USB flash drive is plugged into your Mac.
  2. Start up your Mac in Windows.
  3. From File Explorer, open the USB flash drive, then open Setup or setup.exe, which is in the WindowsSupport folder or BootCamp folder. When you're asked to allow Boot Camp to make changes to your device, click Yes.
  4. Click Repair to begin installation. If you get an alert that the software hasn't passed Windows Logo testing, click Continue Anyway.
  5. After installation completes, click Finish, then click Yes when you're asked to restart your Mac.

Learn more

If you can't download or save the Windows support software:

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  • If the assistant says that the Windows support software could not be saved to the selected drive, or that the USB flash drive can't be used, make sure that your USB flash drive has a storage capacity of at least 16GB and is formatted correctly.
  • If the assistant doesn't see your USB flash drive, click Go Back and make sure that the drive is connected directly to the USB port on your Mac—not to a display, hub, or keyboard. Disconnect and reconnect the drive, then click Continue.
  • If the assistant says that it can't download the software because of a network problem, make sure that your Mac is connected to the Internet.
  • Make sure that your Mac meets the system requirements to install Windows using Boot Camp.

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If a Mac feature still doesn't work after updating the Windows support software, search for your symptom on the Apple support website or Microsoft support website. Some features of your Mac aren't designed to work in Windows.